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3/29/10
I arrived in Hiroshima at about 6:00 this morning by midnight bus. I got to my hostel by 8:00 and dropped off my backpack before heading to the Peace Garden and 原爆ドーム (The Atomic Bomb Dome). The Dome was actually the Hiroshima Prefecture Industrial Promotion Hall and was known for its bright green dome. The bomb exploded right above it, and amazingly, the framework of the building survived. For years, there was a debate as to whether it should stay erected or be torn down, and it was eventually decided that it would remain a monument for peace in Hiroshima. There is something hauntingly beautiful about the building remains where it stands beside the river and the island where the memorial park is.
The garden is really beautiful. There are trees and sakura blossoms, and various statues covered in colorful paper cranes, a sign of peace in Japan. My favorite was the children’s monument, which memorializes the children who died because of the bomb.
The figure at the top holds a crane above her head, and all of those cases surrounding the statue are filled with colorful paper cranes, some arranged to deliver messages of peace.
I took a walk through the Peace Museum as well, which retells the history of Hiroshima, from how it was built, through the war, the rebuilding of the city, and efforts for peace today. I know a few people who have been through the museum before, and they said they felt as though the museum victimized the Japanese when they were the ones who made the US enter the Pacific War.
I actually thought the museum was very well done. I read through each excerpt, and there were confessions of the attack on Pearl Harbor and the Rape of Nanking. There was even a section devoted to understanding other countries’ views of Japan because of what they had done during the war. As for victimizing themselves, let’s face it: Thousands of people died. That’s a terrible tragedy, regardless of the fact that they were at war with us at the time. This is their memorial, the way that they honor their people who died so tragically. There’s no memorial for the Hiroshima victims in the US, so I think it makes perfect sense for them to focus on their own people and only touch on Pearl Harbor and Nanking. At least they admitted that they were in the wrong.
There was even a section of the museum describing Hiroshima’s efforts to bring an end to nuclear arms worldwide. Is that a future we will be seeing anytime soon? I don’t think so. With the US at war with Iraq and other countries watching each other with their fingers over the button, it’s hard to completely trust anyone. Regardless, I admire the people here for their attempts to seek world peace.
To be honest, I was a little worried about coming to Hiroshima at first. Sure, the bomb had been dropped sixty-five years ago, but sometimes people hold grudges. I wondered if people would treat me differently knowing that I am American (even though the bomb was dropped WAY before I was born). But the people I’ve come across so far have been very friendly, and the messages of peace delivered by the Memorial Park ring strongly with the people of Hiroshima, I feel.
As an example, it was raining on and off today as it did in Kyoto. I was wandering the park grounds when it began to really pour down. I had stupidly left my umbrella at the hostel, so I took shelter under a tree near a memorial mound where the ashes of many bomb victims are buried. As I ducked under the tree, I was joined by a group of elementary school students on a field trip, similarly seeking shelter from the rain. They greeted me with smiling faces and cheerful shoutings of “Hello!” I gave them smiles and little waves as the teachers got the kids together and they all slipped prayer beads around their hands. They faced the memorial mound and began to sing a prayer together; a song wishing for peace for the souls of those who had tragically passed. Once they finished singing, the rain began to let up, so they scurried off to their next location, but not before giving smiles and waves in my direction. I can’t say for certain if this message for peace has spread through the rest of Japan, but I hope it has. If the whole country can rise up and try to spread peace, maybe it will be passed on to the rest of the world until everyone feels safe and secure in their own homes.
3/28/10
So I took a later train from Kyoto to Osaka and found my hostel with a little bit of difficulty. It’s a small place called the Peace House Showa, and it’s in a back alley in Tennoji. If you’re looking for more of a hotel-like hostel, this isn’t for you. However, it’s really a great place to meet people and Yumi, the woman who runs it is super nice and speaks perfect English. After getting a good night’s sleep, I woke up and went to Osaka Castle Park station to meet up with Ueno Taeko, out Japanese TA from last year who lives in Osaka. We caught up with each other as we strolled through the park. Apparently she is now working as an English teacher for middle school students.
Though Osaka is another big city that maybe doesn’t have as much to see as Tokyo, the city has a bit more character, I think. On my way to my hostel on the night I arrived, I passed by two street performers, and there were even more in the park as Taeko-san and I made our way to the castle. We saw jugglers, a man with a trained monkey, and a charming old man playing guitar.
The castle itself is really beautiful. It stands tall and white, surrounded by not one, but two moats, and a couple of bridges. Inside is a museum about the history of the castle, including artifacts such as samurai armor, ornate helmets, and silk screens. The park is really lovely too with the river/moats running through it and the sakura starting to bloom. For lunch, we had an Osaka special: Okonomiyaki, which is essentially an omelet/pizza-type thing. They make them in Hiroshima too, only thinner and with noodles and cabbage.
After lunch, we went to Dotonbori and Shinsaibashi, a loooooong strip of a shopping center and a street filled with flashing lights for restaurants, bars, and karaoke clubs, the center of Osaka’s nightlife. We wandered around for a while, Taeko-san pointing out the famous Glico sign and the giant moving crab, before we parted ways.
On Sunday, I spent the day at the Osaka aquarium. Despite being really crowded, it was a lot of fun. I saw the seals as they were being fed; performing tricks of rolling over and waving at the audience before getting rewards of fish.
And of course, Osaka Aquarium’s pride and joy: The whale sharks.
There are two of them at the aquarium and they are HUGE. What’s really interesting is the way that the smaller fish seem to cling to them. You’d think it would be the other way around…
3/26/10
So my journey to Kyoto had a couple of hiccups. Mari and I made the mistake of thinking that my bus left at 11:40 at night when in reality, it left at 10:40. By the time we realized it, it was already 10:15. It takes half an hour to get to Tokyo station, and I still hadn’t finished packing just yet. I threw everything in my backpack and Mari drove me to the Nishi-Kawaguchi station to see if I could get there on time. We said a quick goodbye before I ran to catch the next train. I had tears in my eyes, but not because I was afraid of missing the train. More because I didn’t want to have such a hurried and rushed goodbye. As it happened, I missed the bus, so I turned around and came back to Nishi-Kawaguchi. I went back to the house where Mari was already looking for morning buses that could take me to Kyoto. She insisted that I take a shower and go to bed, so I did just that.
The next morning, Mari still hadn’t found any buses, but she brought up the option of the Shinkansen (bullet train). I had considered this when I first thought about traveling around Japan, except for the fact that seats are ridiculously expensive. However, she insisted on paying for it, so I was able to eat a relaxed breakfast and get all packed up before we went to the station to get a ticket. Ticket in hand and bags all packed, Mari and I parted ways as I headed toward Tokyo station.
In the end, it worked out fine, and I even had a random chance occurrence. As I got onto my Shinkansen platform, part of it was roped off and there were a bunch of photographers taking pictures of something. I couldn’t see what it was from where I was standing, but there was a train getting ready to depart, which was to be the one before mine. As the train took off, a woman dressed in a red and white dress suit and fancy hat waved to the waiting passengers on the platform. A man behind me said to his wife, “Do you know who that was? It was the empress!”
This would be the first of two encounters.
I arrived at Kyoto station in less than three hours and proceeded to get mind-bogglingly lost looking for my hostel. There’s only one JR line train that runs through Kyoto and I thought, “Well, I’ll take the one that looks closest to the hostel.” I ended up walking for about 2-3 hours trying to find my way. On the bright side, I passed some majorly gorgeous scenery. Kyoto is really a beautiful city with a completely different dynamic than Tokyo. In Kyoto, the best way to get around is by bus, and the city is surrounded by mountains and lush green trees. The buildings aren’t particularly tall, and it’s generally much more quaint.
The hostel I stayed in, Kyoto Utano Youth Hostel, was awesome. I recommend it to anyone else who goes to Kyoto (just don’t try to get there by the JR). I spent a comfortable night in a warm bed after taking a hot bath.
One of the awesome things about the hostel is that you can buy an all-day bus pass for 500 yen. Unlimited access to the city buses all day for about five bucks? Yes please.
So in Kyoto there are about a million temples. Which ones do you visit? An excellent question. I based my decisions on suggestions given to me by Mari and one on-a-whim choice. The first on my list was Kinkakuji.
Right when you walk in through the entrance, you’re met with a golden structure on a pond that glimmers in the sunlight, and it’s really breath taking. There are also beautiful pathways paved in stone that lead to a teahouse and vendors trying to sell dango and other treats.
After Kinkakuji, I hopped on a bus and headed in the general direction of Kyomizudera. Cue me getting lost and walking in the wrong direction along a river. It was still a pretty walk, but kind of annoying when you’ve got a big heavy backpack on your back. As I crossed streets, I noticed there were a lot of traffic cops. Like A LOT of traffic cops. As I stood waiting for the light to change at an intersection, the small group of Japanese women next to me started squealing and waving at a passing car. With a quick glance, I saw a female figure waving from the car window. Guess who saw the empress again without even realizing it? I wonder if she recognized the pink-haired foreigner with the big blue backpack.
The second stop was Kyomizudera. Holy mother, this is one gorgeous temple. The grounds are huge, first of all, and covered in maple and sakura trees (some of which were in bloom, but probably not to their full capacity). There are little side paths that lead you to smaller shrines and sites, like the love stone.
It was also raining on and off all day, which explains why there are rain clouds in some pictures while the rest are all sun-shiny. I think my favorite spot was the holy water fountain. As is tradition with visiting Japanese temples and shrines, you have to stop at a cleansing fountain where you wash your hands and mouth before stepping inside. Kyomizudera has one at its entrance, but it has an extra one that supposedly has holy water. I just thought the fountain was pretty. :)
My final stop in Kyoto was Ginkakuji, which turned out being quite like Kinkakuji, only less gold and more zen garden-esque. It was a lovely walk and had a nice view of the city.
Overall, Kyoto was really lovely. It was quite refreshing from the bustling city scene of Tokyo. There are no by-ways over the heads of pedestrians, and there are lots of trees and green and flowers and pretty suburban houses. Overall, a really nice couple of days.
3/24/10
Today was my last full day in Tokyo and I leave for Kyoto on a midnight bus. I worked in the office until about 2:30, and Mari and Naomi surprised me with a cake that we shared before I left to visit the Toei animation gallery. The gallery itself was small, but kind of cool, since it’s the studio that created wonderful series’ such as Cyborg 009, Galaxy Express 999, Dragon Ball Z, One Piece, and the series that first started my interest in anime and manga: Sailor Moon.
For this post, I figured it was time I showed pictures of the people I’ve been spending all my time with. Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures of Glenn, who always made sure I was comfortable with the work I was doing and made me feel comfortable in the house, since he is American too. I am really grateful for the opportunity to work in his office, have lessons from the artists who work for him, and for getting to know him and his family.
This is Mari, Glenn’s wife, who always made sure I had plenty to eat and gave me equally great opportunities, like going to the elementary school. She helped me plan my travel from Tokyo to Nagasaki and gave me suggestions on where to go both in Tokyo and in my other stops along the way to Nagasaki. Always smiling and completely selfless, she made me feel completely at home and like I was part of the family. I also got to meet her father (pictured here) and her cousin. Both are just as kind as she is, and her father has an adorable way of speaking.
This is Naomi, Glenn’s assistant and my supervisor in the office. She’s originally from California and went to school in Minnesota. Super nice, and full of recommendations of great places to eat, she made working in the Japanime office really fun and was always able to answer any questions I had about the work I was doing, or Tokyo itself.
Here we have Okura-sensei and Saori-san, the artists who taught my lessons in the Japanime/Manga University offices. Okura-sensei is an excellent teacher, both in English and Japanese (though he’s very modest about his English speaking skills, which are excellent), and really assesses what his student doesn’t understand and remedies it quickly. He also knows the best ramen place in Tokyo. Saori-san is adorable, and very kind and fun. I feel blessed to have been taught by both of them.
Then there’s Emily, Glenn and Mari’s daughter. We didn’t say very much to each other, mostly me commenting on things she was doing or watching, or offering her something to eat or drink, or asking her about her favorite anime/music/etc. Still, I think we shared a silent bond and enjoyed each other’s company.
Plus we both have a low tolerance for heat/smoke from okonomiyaki grills.
Finally we have Chibisuke and Toranosuke (Chibi and Tora), Mari’s cats. Chibi lives in the house with Glenn and the rest of the family while Tora lives with Mari’s dad. While Chibi is rather aloof, he got used to me and found my lap to be quite comfortable when he was particularly sleepy. Tora is playful and loveable, and found me to be a great playmate when Mari and I came to visit.
All of these people have been wonderful to me, and I hope to someday convey to them how much this experience has really meant to me. I’ve never liked the idea of leaving a place, but I don’t think this is 「さようなら」. “Goodbye” is too final, and you never really leave anyone forever. This is only “I’ll go and come back.” Or rather, 「いってきます〜！」
3/20/10
Today I made a trip to Kamakura, a town that’s about an hour and a half’s train ride from Nishi Kawaguchi. I’ve never been to Kamakura before, nor have I read much on it, so I wasn’t sure what to look for or what to expect. Once I arrived at the station, I stepped out and just wandered around until I found something interesting. I found a pedestrian street with shops that reflect that older style with awnings and curtains. After a bit of wandering, I came across a very large temple and went to explore. What did I stumble upon?
A wedding! I wasn’t sure at first whether I should stick around and watch/take pictures, but a lot of other people who weren’t in the wedding party were doing so, so I figured it was all right. I watched the entire ceremony as the priest and priestess served ceremonial sake to the couple and gave proper respects to the main temple. Fun fact: Japanese brides wear head-covers to hide their “horns of jealousy.”
Once the wedding was over, I wandered the grounds a little more before returning to the station to catch a bus to the 大仏 (literally, “big Buddha”).
Seriously, this thing is huge. It’s 200 yen to get in to see him, and you can pay an extra 20 yen to go inside Buddha.
And here we have Chibisuke in part of Emily's cosplay. He looks very displeased, but he sure is cute. :) For more pictures of the wedding and Kamakura, check out my Photobucket page.
3/17/10
When I decided that I wanted to study abroad in Japan, I knew right away that I wanted to go in the spring. My reason? I wanted to see the cherry blossoms (or sakura in Japan) in bloom.
Sakura season is a big deal in Japan. I knew this before, but didn’t fully realize it until I experienced sakura-mania in Tokyo. Every other shop from bookstores to bakeries has decorations of pink flowers in the windows or near the door. Tea shops are selling sakura tea, Starbucks has been advertising the sakura frappacino and the sakura steamer, and you can bet that all kinds of bakeries and pastry shops have added sakura treats to their menus; Cake, cookies, bread, and of course, mochi.
So today I went to Ueno Park to see if any of the trees had blossomed. Ueno Park is home to a zoo, several museums, and the largest population of pigeons in Tokyo (these being the first ones I’ve seen since I arrived). The park is also one of the few places where you will actually see street performers; jugglers and street magicians and the like. To my surprise, there were a few trees in bloom despite the cool weather. This is nothing in comparison to what I expect the trees will look like when they are all in bloom at once, but it was still nice to see some blossoms here and there.
Once I had my fill of the park, I walked to Akihabara where I bought a sakura steamer and a sakura cream mochi. The steamer was delicious, with a hint of sweet and warm spice, something akin to cinnamon, and the mochi was just as yummy; a rice cake filled with sakura paste and cream. A nice little treat on a chilly early spring day.
3/16/10
My weekend was pretty chill. I spent Friday and Saturday revisiting a few places, and Sunday I relaxed at the house before meeting with one of my college professors for dinner (She’s here on sabbatical until June). Monday was another day of revisiting, and today was my second manga lesson with a new teacher: Takarai Saori. She’s done many works for Japanime/Manga University already, including Manga Moods, Manga Tarot, and Manga Sisters, which she made with her own sister. Saori-san’s style is distinctly かわいい, and she has an excellent eye for color, which is what my lesson was about; Specifically pertaining to Copic markers.
For those who don’t know, Copics are God’s markers. They blend beautifully without leaving any streaking, and you can get a wide variety of shades with just one marker. Naturally, they’re ridiculously expensive, but they’re worth every penny. They can be intimidating at first though, because along with the colored markers comes a colorless blender marker. Confusing beyond all means, the colorless blender can produce some really lovely effects if you know how to use it right.
With Saori-san’s guidance, I was able to produce this little number:
Aside from being a very talented artist, Saori-san is the most adorable Japanese person I have ever met, including my professor back at school, and Hiro-san who I interviewed last January. She is a bit soft-spoken, but has a bright smile and a cheerful laugh and can bring a smile to anyone’s face. She is also extremely kind-hearted. After the lesson, she presented me with her collection of Copics and asked if there were any colors that I wanted. “I know they’re expensive,” was her reason. I declined as politely as I could, thanking her profusely and telling her that she was far too kind.
Saori-san stayed around for a little while to sign some bookmarks that Glenn and Mari will be passing out on their tour of American conventions this summer, and we chatted a bit. She asked me what I was studying, where in Japan I had been, where I was going, what manga I liked best, which ones were popular in America, etc. I answered, but found myself a little shy about asking her many questions.
Tomorrow is calling for warmth and sunny skies, so I will likely take a trip to Ueno to see if there are any cherry blossoms in bloom.
3/12/10
I’ve heard that you don’t know a city well until you’ve gotten lost in it. In Tokyo, it’s pretty easy to get lost if you don’t know where you’re going. I went to Shibuya today, which is one of the hippest parts of Tokyo, home to the ギャル. As I left Shibuya station, I went in the entirely wrong direction, away from the heart of the district. I managed to realize my mistake and went back the station to find the right way. The best part about Shibuya is that you can find your way pretty quickly. Just ask where the dog is.
This is Hachiko. Hachiko was the dog of a Tokyo University professor. Every day he followed his master to Shibuya station to see him off to work, then waited until the end of the day when the professor would return and they would walk home together. One day, the professor suffered from a stroke and died while at work. Despite this, Hachiko waited every day for ten years for his master to return. This statue stands at one of the entrances to Shibuya station and memorializes Hachiko’s faithfulness, along with a mural along the station entrance. For more information and the full story on Hachiko, check out the Wikipedia page here.
Once I had found Hachiko, I knew I was in the right place. After paying my respects to the faithful dog, I carried on to Shibuya 109, a famous shopping center of the ギャル (Gal) style. The set up is very similar to La Foret in Harajuku, with the clothes varying, but all suitable to the style of the ギャル scene. The clothes are fun, but the thing to really look at is the shoes.
Let’s get some shoes.
Seriously, shoes in Japan are so much more interesting than anywhere else. Bows and fluffy puffballs on the toes, the heels, chains, straps, platforms, flowers in the platform heels, and everything else you could possibly imagine. Japan could open a museum to show all the different styles.
After wandering around Shibuya, I went back to Harajuku to explore some more. So guess who found the Putumayo boutique?
The store manager directed me in toward the sale rack (which wasn’t much of a sale. Skirts and hoodies for nearly 5,000 yen!). I was tempted to splurge since it’s my favorite Japanese fashion line, but I restrained myself and bought a ring and earrings instead. The manager (who I think might be the designer too) and I had a good exchange while she rang up my selections.
“Where are you from?”
“Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.”
“Oh, Pittsburgh! I’d like to go there sometime.”
“Really?”
“Yes. Is this your first time in Japan?”
“No, this is my second time.”
“Oh! Really? Where have you been to in Tokyo?”
“Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Asakusa, Akihabara, Ikebukuro…”
“Which place is your favorite?”
“Harajuku, I think.”
“Oh good! The fashion is very interesting, isn’t it?”
“Yes, very interesting! I like it a lot!”
“Oh good! Did you like the clothes here?”
“Yes, everything is really beautiful!”
“Oh, thank you! You speak Japanese very well, by the way.”
“Ah, thank you!”
“I was worried about speaking with you at first, my heart was beating so fast!”
Then we laughed, I finished paying and left, thanking her on my way out. For more pictures of awesome shoes and Hachiko, check out my Photobucket page!
3/11/10
Today was all about the kids. I got up a little earlier this morning to go with Mari to a local elementary school for the sake of getting a feel for Japanese school-life and for a chance to practice my Japanese. We were greeted by the school’s principal and I successfully introduced myself without looking like a バカ外人 (at least he seemed pretty impressed). We then stepped toward the building, took off our shoes, and put on slippers before moving to a conference room where some of the parents had gathered with picture books, apparently planning to read to the younger kids for the first few minutes of class. I introduced myself to each person, told them where I was from, and answered whatever questions they had to the best of my ability (though I needed Mari to translate a few times).
After watching a couple parents read to a class of second-graders, Mari and I visited with the principal some more in his office. I was surprised to discover that he knew quite a lot about Pittsburgh’s history (apparently he did a report on the city when he was still in school). After chatting and sharing a cup of tea, he gave me a tour of the school, allowing me to stand in and watch a few classes. The reactions from the kids varied, but they all stared at me when I walked in the doors, some with their mouths a-gape. I think my two favorites were a sixth-grade class and a first-grade class.
When I walked into the sixth-grade class, all heads turned and looked at me and some kids muttered things to each other. I can only assume they were commenting on me, either how weird I look or why a foreigner was in their school, etc. The teacher gave a small introduction, then Mari encouraged me to introduce myself. The conversation then went as thus:
Me: Hello, my name is Kat. I’m from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, but my college is in Minneapolis, Minnesota.
Kids: Eeeeeh~?
Boy1: Can you show us on a map?
Me: Map? Where…? (now looking for a map in the room)
Boy2: Ah! Her hair is pink!
Me: Yes, it is. Ah! (scurrying across the room to grab a globe on a shelf) Pittsburgh is here. (Pointing in the general direction of Pennsylvania). And Minneapolis is here. (pointing in the general direction of Minnesota).
Teacher: Everyone, grab your geography books and see if you can find them.
Cue all the kids scurrying to their cubbies to get their books and open a US map. I peered over a girl’s shoulder and showed her where the two cities were. To my surprise, Pittsburgh was marked on the map, but Philadelphia wasn’t. Interesting, since it’s usually the other way around in America.
In the first grade class, we walked in on the kids working on a project where they had to make a small structure out of straws and clay. After I was introduced to the class, I had a brief encounter with a little boy and girl in the class.
Girl: (in a very 元気 voice) I like the color of your hair!
Me: Thank you!
Boy: Cool!
Nice to know that the kids appreciate people with weird colors in their hair.
After the tour was done, Mari and I thanked the principal and were on our way. We stopped and had lunch with her father, who seems reserved at first glance, but actually likes to talk quite a bit. Then we returned to the office where I worked until 3.
For my excursion, I went out to Ginza, which I would liken to the Fifth Avenue of Tokyo. While Harajuku is home to funky clothes catered to a specific style, Ginza has stores that are more high-end and mainstream in style. I did laps around the main street for a while before stopping at a place I visited last time I was in Japan: Toy Park.
Four floors of toys, including adorable stuffed animals, action figures, puzzles, trading cards, toy race cars, and snacks featuring anime characters.
In the basement floor of the shop is where you’ll find dolls. Luckily the only Barbie dolls they had were of the limited edition variety, since the rest of the floor was covered in merchandise for Ricca-chan, Japan’s equivalent of Barbie.
Like Barbie, Ricca-chan takes on many occupations and has lots of outfits. Everything from school uniforms to cosplay to professional uniforms. Ricca-chan also has a set of friends, just like Barbie. The significant difference between Ricca-chan and Barbie is that Ricca-chan’s proportions are much more realistic. Her feet aren’t tiny and pointed, her waist is typical of a Japanese girl’s, and her chest doesn’t look like it’s gone under the knife.
Bradley was hoping to find members of his clutch at Toy Park, but alas, no luck. Their Pokemon stock is surprisingly low. I picked up a chocolate truffle sample for him in a department store on our way back to the station to cheer him up.
There are a lot more pictures in my Photobucket account, so please go and browse!
